Clemson Sports Car Club

Quinn brought us his B20 VTEC CRX for a tune.

The car came to us with a street tune on an VAFC. The base ignition timing had been advanced until the distributor was locked out, and the AFR's were dangerously lean.

Here is the setup:

B20B Block
12:1 Pistons
Eagle Rods

GSR head
Blox intake manifold
Type R cams

DC Header
Stock Cat
2 1/2 Exhaust

Tuned on Crome Gold

Here is the tuned chart and the "street tune" chart.



Plans are to switch to a Bisimoto Header and retune on E85







NOTE: Notice the difference between a street tune and a dyno tune. Beware of any shop or "tuner" who does not have the proper tools (ie dyno, wideband, etc) to offer a safe and complete tune. While a street tune can be just as good as a dyno tune, it's leaves a lot more to guess work, and thus has a higher margin of error.

nice improvement!

I wish it were this easy to make power from the Miata's 1.8L x.x Near impossible to get over 130whp n/a without spending tons and tons of money.
The 4.6 in my mustang wont go much over 300rwhp without FI. Why do I buy cars with crappy engines? I need an LS1...

Yes. LSX will do the trick. They respond well to bolt on's and extremely well to tuning.

(02-23-2010 03:53 PM)humjaba Wrote: [ -> ]I wish it were this easy to make power from the Miata's 1.8L x.x Near impossible to get over 130whp n/a without spending tons and tons of money.
The 4.6 in my mustang wont go much over 300rwhp without FI. Why do I buy cars with crappy engines? I need an LS1...

i wouldn't consider that setup easy or cheap.

almost all the same parts exist for your miata.
you might not make quite as much power, but it'll definitely get to 170 whp.

all of the parts basically the same crap you throw on any 4 cylinder.

you can get to 140 whp with the right parts for not too much money.
a 130-140 whp miata will run around mid 14's.

the b20-vtec setup could easily be making 40 more whp with a better header, exhaust, and aftermarket cams.

car blew the trans out at greer saturday.

(02-24-2010 10:17 AM)dave99rt Wrote: [ -> ]

(02-23-2010 03:53 PM)humjaba Wrote: [ -> ]I wish it were this easy to make power from the Miata's 1.8L x.x Near impossible to get over 130whp n/a without spending tons and tons of money.
The 4.6 in my mustang wont go much over 300rwhp without FI. Why do I buy cars with crappy engines? I need an LS1...

i wouldn't consider that setup easy or cheap.

almost all the same parts exist for your miata.
you might not make quite as much power, but it'll definitely get to 170 whp.

all of the parts basically the same crap you throw on any 4 cylinder.

you can get to 140 whp with the right parts for not too much money.
a 130-140 whp miata will run around mid 14's.

the b20-vtec setup could easily be making 40 more whp with a better header, exhaust, and aftermarket cams.

That's not what I've seen... Over on miata.net there's guys running shaved and ported heads, custom headers, cams, dedicated engine management, stroked and blueprinted everything and barely pushing 170whp n/a.

See here:
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=365171

Quote:This includes the cold side as well, but it's not as bad as a hot side, or even worse with an intercooler. My engine is 1896 cc, 01 10 to 1 compression pistons, plus a little help with a head shave and block decking, for about 10.25. 99 head, that been completely reworked, ported, unshrouded, cc'ed, flow matched to a custom ground intake cam, oem exhaust cam, SS exhaust valves. 01 oem reworked tube header, full 2 1/2 inch. low restricton exhaust system. The intake manifold has the seperating wall removed, but retains the opertion of the VIC butterflies, and the throttle body neck is opened up. The crank has been bull noised, knife edged, lighted by 7 pounds, nitrided and rebalanced. Rods and pistons all balance weighted, shotpeened, and blended, all clearances blueprinted. Fuel system is a walbro 255 lph-hp, oem 230 cc balance flowed injectors operating at 60-70 psi, vishnu fuel rail, rising rate afpr, in a return system. Ignition is toyota Cop's, extended tip, 1 stage cooler iridium plugs, dwell reducer. Management is Greedy Blue piggy-back. Larger cooling system, Koyo 55 radiator, 180 wide mouth thermostat, remote oil filter and oil cooler. AEM crossover tube and air filter, lightend oem flywheel, spec stage 2 organic clutch with lightend pressure plate option. 5 speed with 4.30 rear end. Many hour's of dyno tuning. I also have a wideband, oil pressure/temp, and fuel pressure gauges to monitor everything.

all this for 168.8 rwhp @6850 rpm, with 144 lbs of tq.@ 4100 rpm. says he spent $10k on that engine, or roughly the price of an LS1 swap (minus labor).
LS1 swap: engine mount kit ($1,950.00), getrag diff from cts-v ($400), parts to make diff play nice with rear end ($1650), LS1 + t56 ($4000) = $8000 + $2000 for exhaust, chassis stiffening, etc.

miata with an ls1 will hit low 12's